John Day Trail

If you're looking for an easy - really easy - day hike full of fall color, then the John Day trail is your hike. I wanted to get out yesterday but didn't have much time, so figured I'd re-visit this lovely small canyon. What a treat... surprisingly rarely visited given its accessibility and beauty.

John Day is the small canyon looker's right of Soldier Canyon, and the easiest public access is from Soldier Canyon itself. This means two things to visitors... one, fall is hunting season and the Soldier Canyon area is one of the few places hunters can access without having to arrange for permission from private landowners. That means that it's heavily used, often by hunters who don't have a whole lot of experience. Keep yourself safe by wearing day-glo orange - a lot of it. And if you're not absolutely certain your pooch will stay right at your heels, leave him at home.

The second thing to remember about Soldier Canyon is that the access road is closed to motor vehicles from November 15th through May 1st. A lot of people can - and do - use the canyon in the winter, but they park on Lower Lamoille Road and access the canyon on skis and snowshoes. If you want to drive to this trailhead, keep this closure in mind.

Here's some trail beta for you:

JOHN DAY TRAIL

Length:  4 miles RT from trailhead in Soldier Canyon

Elevation gain:  1100'

Difficulty:  Class A (easy)

Time required:  Half-day

The John Day trail is in good shape and is easy to follow. The Backcountry Horsemen and local hunting guides have done a good job keeping this trail brushed out, at least for the first couple of miles, and there are only a few spots where you'll have to step over or duck under deadfall. One guy with a chainsaw could have it cleared in about half an hour.

You'll find the trailhead you're looking for about 3.2 miles along the Soldier Canyon Road after it leaves Lower Lamoille Road. It's the first obvious grassy parking spot once you enter the canyon, and the trail itself is marked with a sign. The trailhead of the John Day Trail is all that's left of the old Secret-Lamoille Trail as it crossed Soldier Canyon. That trail ran from Secret Pass to Lamoille Canyon, largely across the benched foothills of the range, and the John Day Trail junction was about .2 miles in on that trail as it headed south and west from the Soldier Canyon Road.

The first .2 mile of this trail is quite steep - a 21% grade - because it is, in fact, a cut switchback. The original trail actually intersected the Soldier Canyon road a few hundred yards upstream. David Ashby, the former local USFS rec planner who inventoried all of the Ruby Mountain District trails a few years ago, told me that there wasn't a lot of point in re-establishing the old trail since the cut switchback was fairly stable and led to a natural parking area. So - unless you're interested in rooting out the old benched trail bed, this steep little climb right off the bat will be the beginning and the ending of your day. It's not as bad as it looks, and there's thankfully not a lot of dust and loose rock to jeopardize your footing.

Once you gain the top of the little ridge you'll see an old cairn fading into the grass. This old cairn marked the S-L Trail/John Day Trail junction, and if you look you can see the old trail down to Soldier Canyon road off behind the cairn. Unfortunately, the junction it marked no longer exists, as John Day Creek flash flooded a few years back, destroying the crossing and creating an impressive, steep-walled gully barring you from reaching the S-L Trail. It's uncrossable without a rope and a belayer, and dangerous to try. Fortunately, a old subsidiary trail takes off from the John Day trail a little upstream. There's no cairn marking it and it wasn't readily obvious, but I'll chase it down and do a write-up on that one another day.

After you pass the old cairn the trail maintains a steady 10% climb, but the trail's so good and the grade is so consistent that you hardly notice you're gaining elevation. The first half mile or so contours around the climbers' left side of the canyon, through sandy soil with only infrequent shade provided by sparse mahoganies. It's pretty hot and dry through here in the summer, but the views make it worth the walk. There's a relatively new cairn along this stretch - not sure what it marks, perhaps an easier crossing of John Day Creek. Worth exploring if you have the time and aren't afraid of rattlesnakes.

It doesn't take long for the trail to dive into a tunnel of aspen, and this is where it becomes truly lovely. The trail crosses the creek a few times, and you will probably have wet feet if you do this hike during high water.

At 1.7 miles, you'll reach the end of the nicely brushed-out trail at a grassy hunter's camp. Unlike some others, this one's pretty clean and is still a very pleasant place. I was more than surprised to find it unoccupied.

Past the camp, you can walk another quarter of a mile along the creek to a lovely little spot where the stream babbles and laughs in the summer. In the fall, it provides a peaceful spot and a great photo opportunity.

The map shows that the trail goes on for another half-mile, but there's very little evidence past this point that it ever existed. I was able to follow it for another quarter mile, but it was completely overgrown and a full-on bash through waist-deep brush. This trail would be easy enough to reclaim, if anyone were interested. It's a shame to lose the rest of such a nice walk.

Here's the map - click on it (and on any of these photos) to make it bigger.

Autumn on the Secret-Lamoille Trail

We are in the throes of a stunningly lovely fall here in Lamoille, one of the most beautiful in recent memory. I'm not sure why we got so lucky this year, but the leaves started turning up in the Rubies several weeks ago and are showing an absolutely wonderful propensity for hanging on. That may change at any moment, of course, depending on weather. Today's snowfall up there may well have sounded the death knell for Fall 2013. I hope not, but you never know.

I've been doing a little hiking recently, gearing up for ski season. There's nothing to get me out on the trails faster than fall temperatures, golden leaves and the sure knowledge that my primary ski partner is working his butt off getting in shape. If I don't want my ass handed to me even more so than is usual, it behooves me to get out there and walk uphill pretty regularly.

I hadn't been to the end of the Secret-Lamoille trail project since spring, and so decided yesterday to walk to the end of this year's construction and see how far they've gotten. The answer - not much farther than they were at the end of last construction season, but they're moving through rough country and are doing a decent job with it. They have a snowfence closure at 3.96 miles, and the roughed-in trail ends another .22 miles past that. Their closure was at 3.68 miles this spring.  There's a dead doe at the end of the roughed-in part who caught her foreleg in a pile of rocks and died of entrapment... let's hope she finishes decomposing before the city kids doing the trail work get back up there next spring. I didn't see a lot of point in stepping past her and enveloping myself in an aspen tangle bushwhack. I did that back when we did the NEPA survey for this trail, and that was plenty, thanks.

They'll be at approximately the half-way point in another half mile, as well as the most viable camping spot on the trail. That is a very sweet place to pitch a tent, with a drippy little spring nearby and endless Great Basin sunset views. The trail right now averages a 7% grade - aerobic but quite doable on a mountain bike and a whole lot more kind than the other hiking trails in the Rubies these days.

Right from the outset it's clear that this trail is getting regular use from hikers and mountain bikers, which made me happy to see. I've seen a lot of horse trailers parked up there this summer, too, which means the horsey set is out enjoying the new trail as well. Multiple-use... so nice to see everybody getting along.

They've gone back in and fixed a few old problems with the trail, although the switchbacks by and large still don't come close to meeting specs for a Class 2 equestrian trail (5' turning radius). It's a good thing there's no reason to take a pack string up there right now... that will change, though, when the trail gets to Talbot Creek. Personally, it doesn't make sense to me at all to build something wrong when you can build it right the first time, but so it goes. Based on what I'm seeing up there they have some folks on board now who have a clue, so hopefully they'll go back and bring those things up to spec down the road. We'll see.

The first few miles of the trail are settling in nicely, and weave in and out of some lovely drainages and through some beautiful little aspen groves during the initial climb. What a difference from when we had to bushwhack through that for the NEPA survey! So beautiful and such nice walking and riding right now.

The views out towards the Lamoille Valley are stunning, and they really give you an appreciation for the local ranching community. Without their passion and tenacity this whole area would be built up... covered with pavement and housing. Views like this one show the difference in our landscape the ranchers make, and I for one am very glad.

The portion of the trail that they worked on this year is a little rougher than what they finished previously, but based on what's been happening on the trail thus far I imagine they'll go back and polish it up a bit next summer. I was really glad to see that they fixed this asinine area... a couple of summers ago the brain surgeons running the show had the kids put in a couple of non- horse- or- bike- friendly stairs right here rather than taking the fairly obvious step of routing around. Fortunately, they went back in and fixed it and hopefully the screwed up part will fill back in sooner rather than later.

Some of the nice rock work on the new section... the rock work is worth taking time to examine all along the route.

Hopefully Ma Nature will give them a hand this winter, and break a little rock on this outcropping by freezing and thawing their drill holes.

All in all, it's a very enjoyable hike right now, as well as a great trip on a horse or MTB. Just remember to play well with others. I ran into a local rancher out walking up there a couple of days ago, and he commented on how much he was enjoying the trail. I did have to laugh to myself when he said it, remembering some of the comments from the yo-yos who so vehemently opposed the project. "It's ugly!" they said. "Nobody will ever use it!" They were wrong, and it gives me pleasure every time I'm up there and see all of those visitors' tracks.

Technical difficulties

I've been more than a bit lax on my blog updates these days.  The biggest reason is that my GPS and camera both died on a river trip in the Grand Canyon earlier this year, and I can't afford to replace them at the moment.  Sorry about that.  I figured that there's not a whole lot of point adding a bunch of paragraphs to this blog without good pictures, maps and trail beta to go with.

At some point I'll collect up enough ducats to get some replacement equipment going.  I'm having to be patient, and so, dear reader, must you be too.

Happy exploring!

No, you can't get to Verdi this way, yet...

So, apparently, folks are hiking up the Secret-Lamoille trail these days, fishing poles in hand, hoping to bring home a nice trout dinner from Verdi Lake.

I hate to tell you this but you can't get through to Verdi yet via this trail.  Not only that, you probably won't be able to get through to Verdi on this trail for a couple more years at the rate they're going.

Progress on trail construction is happening, but it's happening slowly.  The crews are up there working again this summer pushing the trail through, but they still have some rough country and thick brush to cross.

The trail is beautiful and challenging and a great day hike or mountain bike ride, but right now it dead ends a little less than half-way to Talbot Canyon where the crews are working.  Walk or ride on up, tell them "hi" and thank them for sweating in the sun on our behalf.

And in the meantime, if you want to get to Verdi, you can head up over the top of the Lamoille-Talbot ridge above the Terraces Picnic Area or you can make your way up the old guide trail that takes off at about the Glacier Overlook.  Neither route is for sissies, and the old guide trail fades into the brush before you get to the top of the ridge.  One of these days some trail fairies should go up there and finish brushing that trail out, but at the moment it eventually becomes very difficult to find.

The easiest way to get to Verdi right now - at least if you're willing to hike 16 miles or so round-trip - is through private property at the mouth of Talbot Canyon.  The folks who own it are good folks and are pretty open-minded about access.  You can pick up the old Secret-Lamoille trail behind their property and follow it to where it joins the Talbot Creek trail by a huge rock cairn.  Call Nancy Taylor at the USFS for contact information for this and other access points in the Rubies - 775-752-3357.  You can also call Joe Doucette at the Nevada Department of Wildlife for access information, 775-777-2300.

National Trails Day!

Can you believe it? My favorite day of the year is here! NATIONAL TRAILS DAY is coming up on Saturday! We're back up at the SnoBowl again this year, and if we get enough help will have a NEW bottom-to-top hiking and mountain biking trail complete and ready to use. The trail was roughed in last summer by volunteers and NDF crews, and if the stars align we should have it DONE by the end of work on Saturday.


Here's a write-up that appeared on the front page of today's Elko Daily Free Press. Thanks, guys, for helping us get the word out!

Anyway - This SATURDAY, June 8th. 8AM at the Elko SnoBowl. Wear work clothes and gloves. We'll provide tools and lunch. Let's get this baby done! Thanks to Raleys, the BLM and Event Source for helping us make this happen!

On the road, again...

Quick update on Lamoille Canyon conditions - The snow is melting out very quickly and the road is dry up to the closure past Pete's Corner. It won't be long before the USFS moves the closure higher. Don't be tempted to drive past it if they haven't, though - they WILL ticket you for driving on dry pavement. Not much better to do, I guess. Be aware that the left wall is shedding rocks and that it's likely that there will be rocks on the road. Keep an eye out.

The Secret-Lamoille trail is still snowy and muddy in spots and should probably be left alone for a while yet. Riding bikes and (especially) horses on the trail when it's muddy does tremendous damage to the trail bed. No reason to tear it up. Hikers tend to step around the mud, which isn't good for things either.

Snowshoers will have an easy time finding the old trail up climber's right in Right Fork Canyon. There's still snow from the Scout Camp up. Be sure and get back down before it gets too hot, though, as the climber's right wall will shed rocks and ice, as well as a few wet snowslides. To find this trail, walk through the A-frames and keep going past the trail sign that will try and turn you to the left. Follow the snowshoe and ski tracks along the right side of the creek. It's brushy in spots but it will eventually take you to the top of the bench. I was just up there a few days ago on skis - here's a trip report.

It's about a ten mile round trip to the back of the canyon, and easy walking once you get past the bushwhack and on the bench.

Winter's here!

We LOVE winter around here! My ski blog gets a lot more attention when the trails are covered in snow - naturally. If you like winter mountain pictures, go here. Otherwise, we're into winter access time, and there are several easy day hikes for the intrepid winter recreationist.

Here are a few ideas: 

The Lamoille Canyon Road is closed at the normal spot just past Pete's Corner. However, for some reason they're not plowing it this year and so whether it's passable or not is entirely a different question. You can reliably get (in a passenger car) to the Ruby Dome Ranch gate just below the mouth of the canyon. If you have 4WD you can generally get to the first pull-out and the trailhead for the (under construction) Lamoille - Talbot section of the Secret-Lamoille Trail. Or, of course, you can hike up the road. A lot of people do.

Depending on how melt-out is going, you can get up to Right Fork and the trail that takes off behind the Lion's Camp. Keep in mind that this is avalanche terrain and that Right Fork canyon is very prone to avalanches, particularly along the climber's right wall. The trail sticks to the climber's left side of the canyon, but that doesn't mean that you needn't be concerned about slides. Be very confident that you know what you're doing if you decide to head up past the Lion's Camp. Otherwise, there are plenty of snow-covered creekside roads down in the bottom that are safe for casual exploration.

You can also hike up Hennen Canyon. That's an enjoyable winter snowshoe trip. Again, like any canyon up there, stay out if it's wind loaded and the avy danger is high. You can always tool around Spring Creek Campground for a more casual play-day.

If there's plenty of snow on the Lamoille Valley floor, you can head to the Soldier Canyon access road.  Directions are here.  The gate will be locked and you'll have to leave your car on the Lower Lamoille Road, but the snowy access road makes for a nice snowshoe and/or XC ski. It eventually goes six miles up Soldier Canyon, so there's lots of terrain to explore if the conditions are good and you're up for it. Enjoy, and do the snow dance!